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Showing posts sorted by relevance for query encore. Sort by date Show all posts

Saturday, December 9, 2017

Seabourn Sea Change, Part One

Seabourn Cruise Lines has reached a tipping point-- for better or worse-- with its latest ship, the Encore.

When Diane Love and I completed the first segment of our 61-day journey near the end of Encore's inaugural year, we found that in many ways it delivers what Seabourn promises-- contemporary design, more dining and entertainment venues than its other ships, more open deck areas for swimming and sunning, and the feel of an upscale resort.

Encore and its sister ship due next year fulfill the company's commitment to pursue an exponentially larger customer base. Its three other ships launched in the last decade each carry 450 passengers. Encore, with 600 passengers, alone carries the combined capacity of all three of the previous fleet of Spirit, Legend, and Pride that was sold to competing brand Windstar. (More on that Seabourn strategy in a later column.)
600 Passenger Encore, Tonwsville, Australia, Nov 29 2017
We found a mostly enthusiastic ship's company and many satisfied fellow guests. About half of the passengers are repeat-customers from its previous, smaller ships, members of what Seabourn calls its “Club.” This is an outstanding loyalty rate that testifies to the brand's historical appeal despite the  conversion to nearly-mid-size ships.

The ships are a size that it believes can better compete with on-board dining and entertainment offerings of Regent, Crystal, and some other top-rated cruise lines.

Seabourn “Spirit”-- A Mindset and a Discarded Ship


New Seabourn passengers never sailed on the 200-passenger Spirit, Legend, or Pride. They never had what many considered the superior environment of “the Yachts of Seabourn,” the tag line of yesteryear's quite different experience.

Before the Encore launch this year, Seabourn's 450 passenger ships still evoked some of that small-ship experience, or at least passengers like us pretended they did. These vessels-- the Quest, Sojourn, and Odyssey-- presented a challenge to Seabourn as it rapidly doubled and redoubled recruiting and training to staff the ships. The results were mixed, at least in our travels on each of the three, but they still triggered our memories of the Spirit. For us, the bulked-up Encore lacks this link to the past.

Fantasy Island

200 Passenger Spirit, Rovinj, Croatia, Aug 6 2010

The magic of the Spirit was created by mutual agreement between passengers and crew, all of whom embraced the fantasy that they were aboard a private yacht and all of whom behaved appropriately. Guests we encountered on three Spirit itineraries were self-assured, friendly without spilling their life story in the first five minutes of conversation, and had nothing to prove to fellow passengers. This self-confidence was perhaps most conspicuous in their dress, which was ironically not conspicuous. We all dressed like we were on a prosperous uncle's yacht. We remember no “formal nights.”

In contrast, Seabourn's now much larger clientele includes many who would not appreciate the very old tuxedo joke: “Why would I want to dress like the maitre d'?”

Hands Across The Sea (With Apologies To John Philip Sousa)


Today Seabourn makes social interaction a higher priority, which seems to be well-received by many new customers. But many of the tools used to facilitate instant friendships depart from the original small-ship experience.

Early in each cruise there is a party of sorts stretched through all the guest decks and companionways. If you obsess about immediately knowing everything about everyone on-board, you may find it appealing to consume drinks and hors d'oeuvres in the confines of narrow passageways. We found it more like a college dorm party for new freshmen.

Add the likes of a costume trivia playoff and passenger “glee club” performance and you get the idea. Love it or hate it.

The crowd on our first segment from Civitavecchia to Dubai seemed a bit older than some past Seabourn cruises. We are not privy to the company's data, of course, but the need to fill hundreds more “bed nights” may have expanded Seabourn's net to older targets through different agent promotions and marketing channels. 

Public, unguarded conversations about options for hip replacement, the benefit of dying quickly if you have cancer, and extended family health histories made us sometimes feel we were on a Holland America cruise. Holland America, which attracts an older profile, has been the sister line of Seabourn since management of both was consolidated by big brother Carnival, the ultimate owner, a few years ago.

More Space But Just As Full


Seabourn built larger public spaces to make everyone more comfortable, but also books many more passengers to fill the bigger ship. To manage poolside crowds, bulletins remind clients that sun bathing is available not just at the main pool midships, but at new locations fore and aft.

Encore Bow To Bow With 1,950 Passenger
Sea Princess, Cairns, Australia Nov 28 2017
In Encore's popular forward Observation Bar, the volume of passengers who have had a few pops sometimes results in increased passenger volume. That is to say that you may quite clearly hear gratuitously loud conversational outbursts in English or non-English languages, including German or New Jersey or Australian. (Bar Stool Strategy will be featured in a future column.)

Cocktail hour hors d'oeuvres and teatime treats (except the scones) are no longer passed in the Observation. You must choose from a self-service “tapas” buffet and cart everything to your seat. This provides a greater variety but less "luxury" than passed hors d'oeuvres, which are still offered in the Club lounge.

New to us is a bar menu that includes additional charges for what Seabourn considers premium liquors. Seabourn has also been trying to sell wine tasting events from $99 to $500 per person, and individual vintage bottles at meals. All this in an all-inclusive format that promises no charge for fine wine and spirits throughout the ship and no requirement or expectation of tipping.

Dinner Theater Afloat


The largest space is the “Grand Salon,” used for daytime lectures and demonstrations. The Encore's slightly larger stage makes space for more ambitious evening entertainment programs. This change has led Seabourn to present “production” events many nights, featuring four singers and two dancers. We found these evenings somewhat comparable to dinner theater, perhaps a reasonable alternative to the overwrought productions on the largest mainstream cruise ships.

We would have preferred a jazz trio or a chanteuse. The Grand Salon and Encore's other lounges seem to us better suited to a cabaret duo (as practiced in the Observation) or jazz piano and bass, rather than a mini costume epic. Other nights entertainers come from the rotation of singers and instrumentalists and comics and the occasional magician that is familiar to regular cruisers on any cruise line.

For Seabourn regulars, the Grand Salon is best known for numerous fat pillars that block views of the performers from many angles and only a slight rise in seating from front to back that likewise can compromise views. This invariably results in intermittent Jack-in-the Box moments throughout every performance as audience members jump up to try to find a better view. The problem has not been corrected on the Encore.

All cabins are created equal (except for a few)


Cabins on Encore continue design basics developed on earlier ships, which provide a spacious approximately 10 by 30 foot private environment, big compared to lesser cruise lines or even to a king-bedded cabin on ships like the Queen Mary 2. All cabins have balconies. With the exception of a few oversize suites, all Encore cabins are the same, which minimizes the need to pay more for a different or better equipped cabin. This equality of accommodation was a principle since the days of the Spirit and buyers should beware overpaying for cabin location, other than to avoid being next to elevators or a stairway. (We will study cabin location across cruise lines in a later column.)

Dining Roulette


The Restaurant, Encore's main dining room, proved the best choice on this trip and was consistently serving more interesting and better prepared food than our personal experience on Seabourn's 450-passenger ships. However, the “best” table on a particular voyage depends on rotating personnel and other factors, so next sailing you may prefer the poolside Patio, the Colonnade, the new Sushi bar, or the Keller Grill. (This moving cuisine target is something we will explore in a later column.)

Cruising Grade


The net of 1) a bigger ship, 2) ample passengers, and 3) broader demographic and social profile yields an environment akin to a country club or private beach club on a crowded holiday weekend.

Whether that delivers what Seabourn advertises-- “ultra-luxury”-- is in the eye of the beholder and depends on the personal experience and preferences of each customer.

If you have not stayed at l'hotel du Cap in Antibes or dined at long-gone La Cote Basque in New York or enjoyed a villa at the Four Seasons Jimbarin Bay in Bali or (fill in the blank with your own expectations), you may wrestle with an appropriate way to best characterize Seabourn Encore.

Next In Part Two: We continue from Dubai to Singapore to Bali to Sydney. 


Seabourn Sea Change, Part Two

The final legs of our eight plus weeks on Encore were a vivid reminder of the overwhelming importance of people-- both staff and guests-- to the enjoyment and satisfaction of any cruise.

About 95 percent of the original 600 passengers who boarded with us in Rome disembarked in Dubai or Singapore, along with a large percentage of the guest-facing staff. We found that we had set sail on a quite different experience onward to our final destination, Sydney.

The crew and staff who stayed aboard continued to remember our names (a cornerstone of the Seabourn experience) and deliver the level of service we saw beginning in Rome. Some newcomers did not perform as well and there seemed to be a shortage of personnel during peak demand. Service deteriorated further after Bali.

Amped Up


The new cruise director who boarded in Singapore was intent on amping up social events, which led to some odd results. Popular trivia contests appeared more often in the forward Observation Bar, sometimes overlapping afternoon tea or evening hors d'oeuvres. Some bean bag games, which had been played on a small outdoor space on Deck 7 aft of Seabourn Square, moved to the main pool. This necessitated closing one side of the pool sun deck to accommodate the dozen or so people who chose to toss bean bags, clap, and cheer, while the rest of us tried to read or sleep.

Encore does offer a more serene escape from the main pool, The Retreat on Deck 12. Access, including a private cabana, is charged at about a $300 daily premium above the "all-inclusive" cruise fare.
Encore, lighty attended Caviar in the Surf, Nov 21 2017

Caviar in the Surf, which Seabourn labels a "Signature Event," moves to the main pool when staged on a sea day. On one such occasion the cruise director apologized in advance for turning up the music, and then set it so loud that it could have been the ship's Life Boat Muster alarm. I took ear plugs to the next Caviar in the Pool. Sample lyrics:

Mr. Worldwide to infinity
You know the roof on fire
We gon' boogie oogie oogie, jiggle, wiggle and dance
Like the roof on fire
We gon' drink drinks and take shots until we fall out
Like the roof on fire
Now baby get your booty naked, take off all your clothes,
And light the roof on fire
Tell her, tell her baby baby baby baby baby baby baby baby baby
I'm on fire
I tell her baby baby baby baby baby baby baby baby baby
I'm a fireball
Fireball

More Diverse Passengers


Meanwhile, the wave of 500 plus new guests appeared more diverse in nationality and in language (good) and in savoir faire (bad). This diversity cut both ways, adding to the richness of many conversations and interactions, while subtracting from the usual impression of sophistication and civility among Seabourn passengers.

At one port, the captain had to urgently announce over the ship-wide public address system that passengers must stop throwing soda bottles off their balconies to children in small boats 5 to 11 decks below.

One can be forgiven for sometimes thinking they boarded the wrong ship after watching:
  • a passenger prepare his caviar by mixing all the condiments into the central caviar bowl and eating it with a silver tablespoon, or
  • a diner use his hand to grab a barbecue rib from the family-style serving platter, gnaw it down, and then pitch it back across the table into the platter.
Such incidents were certainly not typical, but they were not unique or isolated.

Between Dubai and Singapore we did get our wish for a charming chanteuse, British vocalist Laura Broad. Unfortunately, Grand Salon entertainment after Singapore became more and more narrowly targeted, to be polite. Two evenings the acts were the worst we have ever suffered at sea.

Cruising Grade Commendations


Most every employee on a Seabourn ship does their best to satisfy, and so our thanks go to all of them. The following were special:
  • Dimir, the Restaurant maitre d', whose attitude and extra treats kept customers happy.
  • Slobodan, the ship's chief bartender, who not only appeared virtually simultaneously at all the ship's venues to smooth service, but also corrected any discrepancy he saw beyond the bars in his travels throughout the ship.
  • Victoria, the bartender in the Observation, who understood that her job is performance art and deserves a standing ovation.
  • Cindy, the server at a crucial corner of the Colonnade, who kept the entire buffet buzzing.
  • Anarita and Bruno, the "Duo" in the Observation lounge, who every night performed outstanding, sophisticated music despite a sometimes raucous bar audience.

Cruising Grade


Reflecting on all 61 days of our travels, Diane and I concluded that Encore is a substantially different product that has attracted many materially different customers, compared to Seabourn's other ships.

The suddenly obvious difficulties of imposing the historical Seabourn ambiance and service on a 600 passenger ship suggest that the cruise line may have entered a less discerning customer segment that is at odds with its "ultra-luxury" aspirations.

Later: Cruise Line Strategy: Dynamic Growth, Rough Seas

Sunday, January 14, 2018

Value Alert: Seabourn $250 To $300 Per Person Per Night All Inclusive

If you have always fancied an all-inclusive cruise on a "luxury" cruise line but balked at the price, this may the chance you have been waiting for. The annual sale frenzy that envelopes the cruise industry every January occasionally results in "sweet-spot" pricing like these near the lowest that Seabourn ever charges:

Caribbean 14 Nights Round-trip Bridgetown, Barbados


March 3, 10, 17, 24, April 7. Seabourn Odyssey, 450 passengers, built 2009. 14 nights sailing back-to-back seven night round-trips Bridgetown, Barbados. $4300 per person ocean view. About $307 per night. March 3 sailing ports: Saline Bay, Mayreau, St. Vincent and the Grenadines, Basse-Terre, Guadaloupe, Charlestown, Nevis, St Kitts and Nevis, Fort-De-France, Martinique, Saint Georges, Grenada, Charlotteville, Trinidad and Tobago, Bridgetown, Barbados, Trois Ilets, Martinique, Carambola Beach, Saint Kitts and Nevis, St. Johns, Antigua and Barbuda, Terre-de-Haut, Iles des Saintes, Guadeloupe, Port Elizabeth, Bequia, St. Vincent and the Grenadines, Castries, Saint Lucia.

Transatlantic: 24 Nights The Amazon To The Canary Islands To Tangier To Monte Carlo


Quest Near Valparaiso Dec 18 2016
March 17. Seabourn Quest, 450 passengers, built 2011. 24 nights Manaus, Brazil to Monte Carlo, Moaco. $5500 per person ocean view, $6000 veranda. $230 to $250 per night. Overnight Manaus, Brazil, Boca dos Botos, Brazil, Parintins, Brazil, Santarem, Brazil, Guajara, Brazil, Crossing the Equator, Devils Island, French Guiana, Mindelo, Cape Verde, Mindelo, Cape Verde, Praia, Ilha de Santiago, Cape Verde, Santa Cruz de La Palma, Canarias, Spain, Puerto de la Estaca, El Hierro, Canarias, Spain, Santa Cruz (Tenerife), Canary Islands, Spain, Arrecife, Lanzarote, Canary Islands, Spain, Tangier, Morocco. Plus 10 sea days.

29 Nights Bali, Indonesia, Singapore, Malaysia, Thailand, Sri Lanka, India, Gulf States


Encore, Darwin, Australia, Nov 23 2017
March 12. Seabourn Encore, 600 passengers, built 2016. 29 nights "Route of the Spice Trade." $8000 per person veranda. About $275 per night. Ports: Benoa (Denpasar) overnight, Komodo Island, Indonesia, Celukan Bawang, Bali, Indonesia, Probolinggo, Java, Indonesia, Surabaya, Indonesia, Semarang, Java, Indonesia, Singapore, Port Klang (Kuala Lumpur), Malaysia, Penang, Malaysia, Phuket, Thailand, Sabang, Pulau Weh, Indonesia, Colombo, Sri Lanka, Mangalore, India, Mumbai (Bombay), India, Muscat, Oman, Sir Bani Yas Island, Abu Dhabi, United Arab Emirates, Abu Dhabi, United Arab Emirates, Dubai, United Arab Emirates. This ship is reviewed elsewhere on CruisingGrade.com

Wednesday, June 20, 2018

Arctic Cruise: What You Can Expect From The Vistas And Ports Of The Frozen North

Next month CruisingGrade.com sets sail to the Arctic to research newly-popular cruise ship destinations and renew our acquaintance with Seabourn Quest.


Greenland Northern Lights

For 55 days from Dover, England to Boston, Massachusetts, we will provide tips on what you can expect in the ports of Iceland and Greenland. We will post an up-to-date review of the Quest, one of Seabourn's three "small" ships of 450 passengers each, and compare it to the most recent 600 passenger Ovation and Encore, which we reviewed earlier this year.

Iceland

Lerwick, Scotland
The first 10 days of the Arctic cruise touch Wales, the Isle of Man, and several picturesque Scottish ports, more familiar cruise ship stops that we will also review.

Finally, our itinerary winds through two dozen Canadian destinations from Iqaluit to Montreal to Halifax before ending in Bar Harbor and Boston.

Iqaluit, Canada
We welcome you aboard for our travels and look forward to sharing insight and specific recommendations based on our own world travels.

You can follow us by adding your email in the box at the top of this page.

Great Family Cruises! Click here

Tuesday, February 26, 2019

Smaller Seabourn Ships Often Offer Big Price Advantage Over Its Newer 600-Guest Ones

Often your can sample Seabourn's definition of all-inclusive luxury by booking a cruise on its 450-passenger ships rather than the newer 600-guest versions-- for a much lower price. We find the smaller Quest, Odyssey, and Sojourn more welcoming. 


Cabins and amenities are virtually identical to the larger Ovation and Encore, though they offer somewhat greater public spaces, including poolside and the popular reservation-only Keller Grill. Our review of the larger ships is here, and a review of the Quest here. Seaborne cruises include all dining, beverages, and gratuities. 


Compare these sailings, with a $100 per night per person difference:


Quest Pool

Quest Veranda Suite

450 passenger Seabourn Quest, built 2011, refurbished 2018 "Gems of Iberia & France." Seaborne calls this:


"A classic springtime voyage from Lisbon to London, via Wales and England, Brittany, Normandy, Paris and Belgium."


May 3, 2019, 14 days Lisbon to Dover, 300-square foot veranda suite $4,299 per person plus $589 taxes, fees, port charges. 


Friday, May 3         Lisbon, Portugal
Saturday, May 4 Oporto (Leixoes), Portugal
Sunday, May 5 La Coruna, Spain
Monday, May 6 At Sea
Tuesday, May 7 Cork (Cobh), Ireland
Wednesday, May 8 Fishguard, Wales
Thursday, May 9 Falmouth (Cornwall), England
Friday, May 10 St. Malo, France
Saturday, May 11 Cherbourg, France
Sunday, May 12 Rouen, France
Monday, May 13 Rouen, France
Monday, May 13 Seine River (Cruising)
Tuesday, May 14 Dunkerque, France
Wednesday,May 15 Brussels, Belgium
Thursday, May 16 Zeebrugge, Belgium
Friday, May 17 London (Dover), England

Ovation Pool


Ovation Veranda Suite
600 passenger Seabourn Ovation, built 2018 "Vintage Europe." The cruise line pitch:


"Aficionados choose this cruise to sample Spanish and Bordeaux wines, calvados from Normandy and English, Belgian and Dutch beers."


May 15, 2019, 14 days Lisbon to Amsterdam, 300-square foot veranda suite $5,799 plus $495.


Wednesday, May 15 Lisbon, Portugal
Thursday, May 16         At Sea
Friday, May 17         Gijon, Spain
Saturday, May 18         Bilbao, Spain
Sunday, May 19         Biarritz, France
Monday, May 20         Bordeaux, France Cruising Gironde Estuary
Tuesday, May 21         Bordeaux, France
Wednesday, May 22 At Sea
Thursday, May 23         Torquay, England
Friday, May 24         Cherbourg, France
Saturday, May 25         Brugge, Belgium
Sunday, May 26         London (Greenwich), England
Monday, May 27         London (Greenwich), England
Tuesday, May 28         Vlissingen (Flushing), Netherlands
Wednesday, May 29 Amsterdam, Holland

Ovation Keller Grill


Friday, February 9, 2018

Value Alert: Seabourn 28-Day All Inclusive Round-Trip From Singapore

Seabourn is offering four weeks circling from Singapore, including Southeast Asia, China, Philippines, and Malaysia on its forthcoming ship, the 600-passenger Ovation for $11,000 per person, down $2,000 from recent days.

Seabourn Ovation Rendering

The January 19, 2019, sailing is good value for several reasons.

  1. the price advertised at www.seabourn.com is in the low range of all Seabourn pricing for its all-inclusive environment (plus taxes, fees and port expenses of $630 per person).
  2. booking comes with a three-category upgrade, which means a veranda cabin at a mid-ship location or on a higher deck, rather than forward on a lower deck.
  3. there is an $800 per suite ($400 per person) shipboard credit.
  4. guests who book round-trip air through the cruise line receive an air credit of up to $500 per person.
  5. Travel agents often chip in additional on-board credits or other amenities for cruises at this price point.
Singapore Ancient & Modern

Calling On


The ports, many of which were a satisfying experience for us on previous visits, offer an appealing mix of Asian cultures and three significant overnight stays:

  • Singapore City
  • Bangkok, Thailand
  • Ko Kood, Thailand, typically a Seabourn beach barbecue and "caviar in the surf" site
  • Sihanoukville, Cambodia
  • Ho Chi Minh City overnight
  • Da Nang
  • Cai Lan-Halong Bay
  • Hong Kong overnight
  • Xiamen, China
  • Hundred Islands National Park, Philippines
  • Manila, Philippines overnight
  • Boracay, Philippines
  • Coron Island, Palawan, Philippines
  • Puerto Princesa, Philippine
  • Kota Kinabalu, Malaysia
  • Singapore City
We reviewed the Ovation's sister ship, the Seabourn Encore, here in two articles, Seabourn Sea Change Part One and Part Two. These cover both the satisfactions and some problems we experienced on a 61-day cruise from Rome to Sydney.

Angkor Wat Mid Cruise Journey



Angkor Wat

If Seabourn offers a three-day "Angkor Wat Mid Cruise Journey" from Sihanoukville, compare that option, including its price and loss of three days on the ship, to booking your own excursion to Angkor Wat from Singapore. You can do that by arriving a few days early or departing a few days after disembarkation and working through a U.S. travel agent or local agent or hotel concierge. You can fly round-trip Singapore to Siem Reap, with hotels a short drive from Angkor Wat. We recommend business class for such internal flights, which at the moment is about $800-$1,400 per person. Economy is $210 to $330 per person.

Sunday, May 13, 2018

Plan Your New Year's Celebration Today: Our Recommended Hong Kong Luxury Hotel With Direct View Of Harbor Fireworks And Then A Two Week Luxury Cruise To Singapore

It is not too late to book a hotel suite with a spectacular view of Hong Kong's New Year's Eve fireworks and then step into your ship suite for two leisurely weeks sailing to Singapore. We hesitate to give away this secret combination of excessive adventures that we experienced a couple years ago. But here you have it:

Hong Kong Harbor New Years Eve

First, book your Intercontinental Hotel Hong Kong suite before it's too late

Intercontinental Hong Kong Junior Suite

A harbor view suite is about $1,000 USD per night arriving December 30 and departing January 5. Ask the hotel to confirm in writing an unobstructed view of the New Year's Eve fireworks. We suggest a rate with the breakfast buffet, which we found extravagant at this highly rated hotel. You may also be offered the option of upgrading to Club status, with day-long snacks and beverages, and booking the New Year's Eve lobby lounge party, which has its own slightly obstructed view of the fireworks. Then over the next few days explore Hong Kong culture and cuisine by hop on-hop off bus or private limousine.

Second, chose your cruise ship from competing luxury brands that sail Jan 5


Two cruise lines offer a rich experience, both on board and on shore, with starting prices for a 14-night sailing that are highly competitive. You are unlikely to find similar itineraries and shore experiences in some of Asia's dream destinations (think Catherine Deneuve in Indochine) at a better price. Both ships are advertised as all-inclusive luxury, including alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages throughout the ship. We reviewed the brand new Seabourn Ovation's sister ship Encore here on www.CruisingGrade.com. We have not sailed on the Silversea Silver Shadow. Keep in mind that the cruise lines' side trip to Angkor Wat eliminates a day or two you paid for on the ship and is priced at twice what you might spend by going there independently at the end of the cruise.

Silversea Silver Shadow, 382 passengers, built 2000, refurbished 2017

Silver Shadow

Veranda Suite
Fare from $5,400 per person for a 287 sq. ft. "panoramic" ocean view suite, $6,930 with veranda, under a 10 percent "early booking" bonus that expires June 30. For bookings made by May 31, the brand also offers reduced air fare, which if purchased triggers free transfers and shore excursions, and a hotel night you might be able to use at the end of the voyage in Singapore before flying home.


La Dame by Relais & Chateaux (surcharge)

Included In The Cruise Fare


  • Butler service in every suite
  • Unlimited Free Wifi
  • Multiple restaurants, diverse cuisine, open-seating dining
  • Beverages in-suite and throughout the ship, including champagne, select wines and spirits
  • 24-hour dining service
  • Onboard entertainment
  • Complimentary transportation into town in most ports
  • On board gratuities

Itinerary


Includes an overnight on Halong Bay, with time for an excursion to Hanoi as well as a sail through the bay; two nights in Ho Chi Minh City with an optional expedition to Angkor Wat; and an overnight in Bangkok where the ship docks near the very center of the city, not the distant commercial port used by most cruise ships.

Saturday, January 5         Hong Kong
Sunday, January 6         At Sea
Monday, January 7         Hanoi (Halong Bay), Vietnam
Tuesday, January 8         Hanoi (Halong Bay), Vietnam
Halong Bay
Wednesday, January 9 Chan May, Vietnam
Thursday, January 10 At Sea
Friday, January 11         Ho Chi Minh City (Phu My), Vietnam
Saturday, January 12 Ho Chi Minh City (Phu My), Vietnam
Sunday, January 13         Ho Chi Minh City (Phu My), Vietnam
Monday, January 14 At Sea
Tuesday, January 15 Bangkok (Klong Toey), Thailand
Wednesday, January 16 Bangkok (Klong Toey), Thailand
Thursday, January 17 At Sea
Friday, January 18         At Sea
Saturday, January 19 Singapore

Seabourn Ovation, built 2018, 600 passengers


Seabourn Ovation Rendering

Seabourn Ovation Suite Rendering
Fares from $5,999 for a 300 sq. ft. Veranda Suite if you click on "We Select Your Suite" at the Seabourn website or work through a travel agent. Promotions available for bookings made by June 12 include complimentary two veranda category suite upgrade (which substitutes an all glass railing for steel and glass), $400 USD per suite shipboard credit when booking an ocean view or veranda, $750 U.S. dollars per person air credit available when booking round-trip flights through Seabourn, and 50% reduced deposit. Book a Penthouse or Premium Suite and receive $1000 USD per suite shipboard credit. Taxes, fees and port expenses add $345 per person, but this is usually absorbed by independent cruise agents along with other benefits they may offer.

Included in the cruise fare


  • Stewardess service
  • Complimentary premium spirits and fine wines available at all times
  • In-suite bar stocked with your preferences
  • Tipping is neither required, nor expected
  • Seabourn "Conversations" with experts
  • All dining venues are complimentary, dine where, when and with whom you wish
  • Ventures by Seabourn™, optional shore excursions, enhance and extend your experience in select destinations

Itinerary


Seabourn Ovation Rendering
Includes an overnight in Ho Chi Minh City with time for Angkor Wat Mid-Cruise Journey, and a beach day at Ko Kood, Thailand for the land-side version of Seabourn's signature barbecue bash including "caviar in the surf." (Caviar is always available by request any time on board.) For Bangkok, Seabourn uses an isolated industrial port an impractical distance from the city. Coach or private transfers take 1.5 to 2.5 hours each way, depending on traffic and weather, which leaves only a couple hours to see a few attractions.

Saturday, January 5         Hong Kong
Sunday, January 6         At Sea
Monday, January 7         Hanoi (Halong Bay), Vietnam
Tuesday, January 8         At Sea
Wednesday, January 9 Da Nang, Vietnam
Thursday, January 10 At Sea
Friday, January 11         Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon), Vietnam
Saturday, January 12 Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon), Vietnam
Sunday, January 13         At Sea
Monday, January 14 Sihanoukville, Cambodia
Tuesday, January 15 Ko Kood, Thailand
Caviar In The Surf At Ka Kood

Wednesday, January 16 Bangkok (Laem Chabang), Thailand
Thursday, January 17 At Sea
Friday, January 18         At Sea
Saturday, January 19 Singapore

Third, book flights and start dreaming


Consider the cruise line's offer for round trip air, which is usually a discounted price based on its purchase of a block of seats at bulk rates not available to individual flyers. Plan B use airline points at the "saver" half-price rate to fly business class to Hong Kong, and back from Singapore. Perhaps buy points if you need them; it is probably cheaper than the airlines' published prices of a round trip ticket that today is about $6,000 per person nonstop from Los Angeles, $7,000 from New York. Alternately, use Google Flights to find a premium economy seat at about half the price of business.

Monday, May 14, 2018

Biarritz: CruisingGrade.Com Port Of The Day

Biarritz, our CruisingGrade.com port of the day, is the subject of a tribute in the latest New York Times Style Magazine. You can read it here: "The Strange, Enduring Appeal of BiarritzÉric Rohmer’s small masterpiece ‘The Green Ray’ is a hymn to youth — and to the beach town’s indefinable allure."


Cruise ships call on Biarritz spring and fall as they sail north or south along the Western edge of Europe. They typically offer a long day to enjoy Biarritz, an overnight in Bordeaux for wine enthusiasts, and often the possibility of excursions to Giverny, Mont St. Michel, Paris, or London.

Three of these four sailings include Lisbon, one of our favorite world-class destinations, a marvel of tradition, architecture, and cuisine, and worth a few days stay at the beginning or end of your cruise.

Our recommendations:


Sept. 15, 2018 'Glamorous Europe'

12 Nights London to Barcelona, All-Inclusive Excursions, Beverages, Gratuities. Mid-size Regent Seven Seas Explorer, 750 passengers, built 2016. 

Regent Explorer
Suite of 219 sq. ft. plus 88 sq. ft. balcony from $12,899 with free air, up to $2,500 per person less if you make your own flight arrangements. $300 ship board credit. Full day in Biarritz with 8 a.m. arrival and 10 p.m. departure. Route also includes San Malo, another historic French beach resort, with time for a trip to Mont St. Michel. 

Itinerary

Saturday, September 15 London (Southampton), England
Sunday, September 16 St. Malo, France for Mont St. Michel
Mont St. Michel
Monday, September 17 At Sea
Tuesday, September 18 Bordeaux, France
Wed, September 19         Bordeaux, France
Thursday, September 20 Biarritz, France
Friday, September 21 Bilbao, Spain
Saturday, September 22 La Coruna, Spain
Sunday, September 23 Oporto (Leixoes), Portugal
Monday, September 24 Lisbon, Portugal
Tuesday, September 25 Seville, Spain
Wed, September 26         At Sea
Thursday, September 27 Barcelona, Spain

Sept. 21, 2018 'Bordeaux, Basque Lands & Brittany' 

12 Nights London to Lisbon, Not As Inclusive, But A Third The Price. Small-size Windstar Star Breeze, 212 passengers, built 1989, refurbished 2015. 

Windstar Star Breeze

Sea view suite 277 sq. ft. from $3,099, with balcony from $4,099 plus $611 taxes on sale this week only until May 16. The Breeze is the former and much celebrated Seabourn Spirit, with much the same luxury cabins, public spaces, and amenities as then, but gratuities and alcoholic beverages are now additional charges. Bairritz from 1 to 9 p.m.. More French ports, no Seville or Barcelona.

Itinerary

Friday, September 21 London (Southampton), England
Saturday, September 22 At Sea
Sunday, September 23 Paris (Le Havre), France
Monday, September 24 St. Peter Port, Guernsey, Channel Islands
Tuesday, September 25 Belle Isle, France
Wed, September 26         La Rochelle, France
Thursday, September 27 Bordeaux, France
Friday, September 28 Bordeaux, Francem
Saturday, September 29 Biarritz, France
Biarritz
Sunday, September 30 Bilbao, Spain
Monday, October 1         At Sea
Tuesday, October 2         Porto, Portugal
Wednesday, October 3 Lisbon, Portugal

May 15, 2019 'Vintage Europe'

14 Nights Lisbon To Amsterdam, All-Inclusive Beverages, Gratuities. New ship Seabourn Ovation, 600 passengers, built 2018. 

Seabourn Ovation Rendering

Balcony suite 340-380 sq. ft. from about $8,999 (if you or your agent selects "We Select Your Suite") plus $495 taxes. See our review of her sister ship, Seabourn Encore, here. Brugge, an overnight in Greenwich that allows time for the long excursion back and forth to London proper, and disembarkation in Amsterdam, one of our most recommended cities.

Itinerary

Wed, May 15         Lisbon, Portugal
Thursday, May 16 At Sea
Friday, May 17 Gijon, Spain
Saturday, May 18 Bilbao, Spain
Sunday, May 19 Biarritz, France
Monday, May 20 Bordeaux, France
Tuesday, May 21 Bordeaux, France
Wed, May 22         At Sea
Thursday, May 23 Torquay, England
Friday, May 24 Cherbourg, France
Saturday, May 25 Brugge, Belgium
Sunday, May 26 London (Greenwich), England
Monday, May 27 London (Greenwich), England
Tuesday, May 28 Vlissingen (Flushing), Netherlands
Wed, May 29         Amsterdam, Holland

Amsterdam


Sept. 17, 2019 'Vineyards & Castles' 

12 Nights Amsterdam To Lisbon, More Ports, No Sea Days, Jacques Pepin Aboard for Cruise. Mid-size Oceania Marina, 1,258 passengers, built 2011. 


Balcony cabin of 282 sq. ft. from $4,899, 420 sq. ft. suite from $6,899. About $1,100 more will buy round-trip airfare and six shore excursions or beverage package or $600 shipboard credit. Twelve hour stay in Dover makes quick London excursion possible, and 13 hours docked in Le Harve allows excursion into Paris or Giverny. No sea days means more ports to enjoy. Oceania says:
Oceania Marina
Join Master Chef Jacques Pépin, our Executive Culinary Director, on this unique voyage perfect for culinary aficionados, which features exclusive signature menus, heartwarming lectures, cooking demonstrations and much more.

Itinerary

Tuesday, September 17 Amsterdam, Holland
Wed, September 18         London (Dover), England
Thursday, September 19 Paris (Le Havre), France
Friday, September 20 St. Malo, France
Saturday, September 21 Brest, France
Sunday, September 22 La Rochelle, France
Monday, September 23 Bordeaux, France
Tuesday, September 24 Bordeaux, France
Wed, September 25         Biarritz, France
Thursday, September 26 Bilbao, Spain
Friday, September 27 Ferrol, Spain
Saturday, September 28 Oporto (Leixoes), Portugal
Sunday, September 29 Lisbon, Portugal
Lisbon

Tuesday, July 17, 2018

Arctic Embarkation: 55 Days Dover To Boston

Our 55-day sailing from England across Arctic shores to Boston began smoothly yesterday, from Dover hotel to embarkation to the sail-away party with views of the White Cliffs.


A heat wave had been enveloping the U.K. and when we drove into Dover a day before departure, we were surprised to see Brits in swim suits crowding the rocky beach facing our hotel.
Seabourn Quest Departing Dover
The absence of “English Weather” was a good omen for our travels and, at least for now, confirms our decision to pack layers of mostly summer clothes even though our itinerary will take us to the edge of the Arctic Circle in Iceland and Greenland.

 We prefer departures from Dover, with its small scale and easy walks from hotels to shops, restaurants, and pubs along streets that still constitute a traditional British town. This is compared to Southampton that is often dominated by several ships of the Carnival brand, which is headquartered there. And there is Dover Castle, with centuries of history through World War II, a brief taxi or tour bus ride up the hill.
Seabourn Quest Departing Dover

Dover hotels are modest but adequate for an overnight before sailing, and staying here removes the anxiety of arriving at a London airport the same day as your cruise, hoping you can find the operator of your transfer, and racing to port before your ship sales.

The Seabourn Quest was a welcome sight. We last sailed her a couple years ago from Florida, along the Eastern coast of South America, into the Antarctic, and then north to Valparaiso. The all-inclusive ship was comfortable and well run for the 45 days and the professional expedition team made the Antarctic experience exciting and memorable.

Quest is one of three Seabourn vessels that now pass for “small ships,” compared to the new 600 passenger Encore and Ovation and the retired 200 passenger “Yachts of Seabourn” that defined the brand for many years.

With the exception of a few over-size suites, all cabins on Seabourn are about the same size, nine or ten feet by 29 or 30 feet. They all feature the same comforts so there is usually no need to specify and pay an up-charge for a particular cabin. Exceptions are if you want to avoid the potential noise of a nearby elevator or stairs. Or in the case of the Antarctic or Alaska, you prefer the view offered by veranda with all-glass panels.

In these first days, our impression is that the cuisine in the dining room, called the Restaurant, and the Thomas Keller Grill has improved as Keller's influence and relationship with Seabourn has intensified. When Seabourn first announced the Keller deal, the implication was that themes from his famous, highly-regarded restaurants, like French Laundry, would make their way on-board.

Keller Lamb In Quest Restaurant
Surprisingly, these early efforts were channeled into an American steakhouse format that, at least to us, seemed indistinguishable from stereotypical steakhouse chains throughout the U.S.

At the outset of this sailing that has changed, with more sophisticated dishes in his namesake dining venue and intermittently in the main dining room. We look forward to that continuing.

After a sea day, our scheduled first port of call was stolen by Pirates-- actually by the Pirates of Penzance. That is to say that we were rerouted to Falmouth because of damaged docks at Newlyn-Penzance, although newly boarding passengers were not informed about the change unless they happened to attend the port lecture at 11 a.m. on the sea day.

After Falmouth, on to Milford Haven, Wales.



Tuesday, December 26, 2017

Holland America: Four Cruises, Three Of Them Successes Over Five Years

Holland America is one of our preferred rides, a cruise line that is above average in many ways compared to other mainstream brands.

That was our positive experience in three of the four cruises we completed in five years, the last just last Spring. We chose the first two trips to see the ports of call. The third and fourth cruises had an additional purpose-- transportation to get to our main holiday destination. (Cruises as simply transport is a topic explored in a later column.)

Holland America’s main tag line is “Savor The Journey,” perhaps a promise that its 15 “mid-size” ships will offer a more welcoming and comfortable sailing than the huge floating hotels that other brands offer. For many guests, the lower key environment is a relief, compared to the Vegas Strip vibe grafted onto some of the newest, largest ships of other cruise lines.

If you want a circus atmosphere or a continuous party for your next cruise, do not choose Holland America.

Mostly traditional decor recalls a bit of the great age of the ocean liner, and art throughout the ships draws on Dutch roots in Holland and Indonesia.

In the past Holland America was stuck with a reputation as a magnet for older guests, a stereotype it has been seeking to shed through new and refurbished ships.

At www.hollandamedrica.com new presentations make the younger pitch. An example:

THE JOY OF CRUISING
Welcome to today's Holland America Line — classic, premium and energized with new ideas. You can see it in the growing list of new experiences we offer our guests.


NORTH by Holland America RYNDAM




In June of 2012 we sailed from Dover to the Baltic, a 21-day journey that was our first bet on Holland America. The Ryndam was launched in 1994 before the rise of the present day behemoths. We were satisfied with the compact size, attentive staff, good food, and spectacularly close fjord views available from this 1200 passenger ship.

Holland America offers similar itineraries today on other ships, now usually sailing round trip from Amsterdam, Copenhagen, or Rotterdam. Prices quoted by agents today for an ocean view cabin range from about $170 to $210 per day per person for a 10 night itinerary.

SOUTH by Holland America STATENDAM


Statendam was built as a twin to Rydam, but as we wrote to Holland America's management, she was no sister ship by 2014 when we had the misfortune to sail the Statendam from San Diego to Lima and back. Knowing the ship was soon to be handed off to P&O Australia, the Statendam crew and staff had pretty much given up on her and, in our opinion, on her passengers. The service, food, and excursions were disappointing. Also, this was the only one of the four Holland America ships we sailed that matched the stereotype of mostly quite elderly guests.

WEST by Holland America VOLENDAM


Image result for ms volendam

The Volendam itinerary from Vancouver via Alaska to China met two of our needs: First, it gave us our first trip to Alaska’s dramatic vistas. Second, it was a convenient way to get to China 28 days later to begin our own land itinerary. And this without jet lag or the outrageous price of a pair of business class airline tickets. 

We flew from Phoenix to Vancouver in September 2016, spent the night, and boarded the 1400 passenger Volendam (built 1999, refurbished 2014). We booked our usual balcony cabin, which on a few smaller Holland America ships counts as a suite in the returning customer “Mariner Society” with double nights credited to our account.

Service, public and private areas, and dining were all satisfactory.

September 2018 a similar 28-day itinerary from Vancouver to Shanghai on Westerdam, reviewed below, is priced at a net total of about $4000 per person, or $143 per night per person. That is the price for a balcony cabin, ideal for Alaska views.


EAST by Holland America WESTERDAM




This year we chose Holland America as transportation, simply to get from the United States to Europe in early spring so we could spend a month on the ground, principally in Sardinia. Westerdam (built 2004) was the least expensive eastbound transatlantic crossing, 14 days Ft. Lauderdale to Civitavecchia. The bargain prices, which had dropped to about $800 per person for remaining balcony cabins in the month before departure, were because she was on her way to Italy for a week-long refurbishment of cabins and public areas.

As a bonus, Westerdam called on Funchal, Cadiz, Malaga, Cartagena, just in time for processions and other festivities the week leading to Easter.

We met a clever couple who also disembarked in Rome, spent a week ashore in Italy, and then re-boarded the now-refurbished ship, which continued on to Venice. 

The Westerdam offered good service, food, and entertainment, and presumably cabins and public areas have benefited from the extensive refurbishment.

An outstanding feature was the B.B. King Blues Club, a dedicated lounge being rolled out on several Holland America ships. The musicians and singers were well above the usual shipboard standard. We managed to get a seat every night even as word spread among passengers that it was a must-see.

UP-SIZING on Holland America KONINGSDAM














Holland America’s latest ship, the Koningsdam (built 2016), breaks the size barrier and bends its design heritage. Interiors were designed by Adam D. Tihany, who Seabourn chose the do the modernized interiors of its mid-sized Encore and forthcoming Ovation. Koningsdam carries 2650 passengers, hundreds more than Holland America ships we have enjoyed.

CRUISING GRADE

We will travel on Holland America again, which is about the best thing we can say about a cruise line.